Almost Heaven Swings
What it is, and why it exists
The Hatfield-McCoy Trails are a network of separate off-road trail systems spread across the southern West Virginia coalfields, running largely on private timber and coal company land under agreements that make public riding legal. It is one of the largest systems of its kind in the United States.
The reason it exists is economic. As mining employment fell, these counties looked for something else the land could do, and hundreds of thousands of acres of logging and haul roads turned out to be an asset. That history is visible everywhere you ride.
The trail systems
It is not one trail. It is a set of separately managed systems, each with its own trailhead, character and difficulty mix — names you will see include Rockhouse, Bearwallow, Buffalo Mountain, Devil Anse, Indian Ridge, Ivy Branch, Pinnacle Creek, Pocahontas, Warrior, Braveheart, Big Coal River and Tornado.
Each system publishes its own difficulty breakdown, and they vary a great deal — some are predominantly easy and family-oriented, others are genuinely technical. Read the breakdown for the specific system before you commit a weekend, and note that published system lists change as trails open and close.
Permits and rules
A permit is required and is the mechanism that funds the system and keeps the landowner agreements in place. Buy it before you ride; they are sold online and by local vendors.
Rules are enforced and worth knowing: helmets, machine restrictions, and the specific trails your permit covers. Riding outside the system on adjacent private land is trespass and is the fastest way to lose access for everyone.
ATV-friendly towns
The distinctive feature of the Hatfield-McCoy area is that several towns have made themselves legally rideable — you can take a machine from your lodging to a restaurant to a fuel stop. Gilbert and Man are the best-known examples, and Logan is the largest service center.
That changes the trip. Rather than trailering to a parking area and back, you can base in town and ride from the door, which is why the system attracts multi-day visitors rather than day riders.
The rest of the region
The coalfields have more than trails. Pinnacle Rock State Park is four hundred feet of stone steps to a viewing deck on a sandstone fin, directly on the Coal Heritage Trail byway. Twin Falls Resort State Park has two waterfalls, a paved trail to Marsh Fork Falls, and is open around the clock. Panther State Forest is about as empty as public land gets in the East.
Bramwell was reportedly the wealthiest town per capita in America during the coal boom and the houses are still standing. Matewan carries the history of the mine wars. The Coal Heritage Trail ties much of it together as a driving route, and it is one of the best autumn drives in the state.
Practical notes
This is not mountain biking and should not be confused with it — it is a motorised system. If you want quiet pedal-powered singletrack, look at the Arrowhead trails in New River Gorge or Canaan Mountain instead.
Book lodging ahead in the ATV-friendly towns during the warm months, and confirm which systems are open. Trail availability changes with landowner operations and weather, and a system that was open last season may not be.
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Placement alongside guides for outfitters, guides, shops and lodging.
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