Almost Heaven Swings

Panoramic view of the Cheat River winding through the forested Cheat Canyon in northern West Virginia
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Hidden Gems in West Virginia

West Virginia's problem is not a shortage of good places, it is that nine out of ten visitors go to the same four.

9 min read

The strangest short walks

Beartown State Park is under a mile of boardwalk through a maze of eroded sandstone fissures, overhangs and crevices. It looks like a set. It takes forty minutes, it is nowhere near anything else, and it is one of the most memorable places in the state.

Cathedral State Park protects a stand of old-growth hemlock — trees that were never logged, in a state that was almost entirely cut over. It is small, it is right off US 50, and you can walk the whole thing in ninety minutes.

Rock City at Coopers Rock is not a view but a boulder labyrinth, reached on a short trail from a picnic shelter, and the nearby Rattlesnake Trail runs the canyon rim for another 0.7 mile with almost no traffic.

Overlooks nobody mentions

Stonewall Resort's Overlook Trail is 0.7 mile of nearly level path to a stone overlook, and it is essentially unpublicised. On the same network, the Cairns Trail passes an odd stone artifact with bullets embedded in it around the one-mile mark.

Overlook Rock in Kanawha State Forest is the nearest real named overlook to Charleston, seven miles from downtown, and most of the city has never been. Note that an internal forest bridge has been closed to all traffic, which affects circulation near the trailhead — call ahead.

Split Rock on Loudoun Heights at Harpers Ferry has a payoff comparable to Maryland Heights and a fraction of the people. Panther State Forest's overlook trail in McDowell County reaches sandstone outcrops above the Cumberland Mountains — the platform is gone, the view is not.

Hillside view over Wheeling, West Virginia, with the Ohio River and the historic Wheeling Suspension Bridge
Hillside view over Wheeling, West Virginia, with the Ohio River and the historic Wheeling Suspension Bridge

Water with nobody on it

Middle Island Creek is the longest creek in West Virginia and loops through Doddridge and Tyler counties in enormous slow bends. Almost nobody floats it. Early summer only — by August it is a wade.

Blue Bend, on Anthony Creek in the Greenbrier Valley, is a CCC-built swimming area that has changed very little. The water is cold well into summer.

The Cacapon River in Morgan and Hampshire counties is genuinely good tubing water with almost no commercial traffic. The South Branch Potomac through the Trough is a steep-walled gorge with no road access, bald eagles overhead and the Potomac Eagle excursion train running alongside — no tubing operator there could be confirmed as trading, so bring your own and shuttle yourself.

Parks people drive past

Valley Falls and Audra, both on rivers in north central West Virginia, have rock ledges, swimming holes and boardwalks and see a fraction of the traffic of the marquee parks. Audra's Alum Cave boardwalk under a rock overhang is worth the trip on its own.

Moncove Lake in Monroe County sits in the quietest corner of the state. Tomlinson Run is the Northern Panhandle's best-kept park with a confirmed valley overlook. Twin Falls Resort is open around the clock, which makes Still Run Ridge one of the few sunset viewpoints in the state with no gate to beat.

Droop Mountain Battlefield, close to Beartown, combines a Civil War site with a lookout tower and hardly anyone visits both.

Ghost towns and industry

Thurmond, in the New River Gorge, was once a railroad town that handled more freight revenue than Cincinnati. It is now nearly empty and you reach it on a slow road down into the gorge. Nuttallburg, across the water, has a coal conveyor running straight up the hillside and is the best industrial ruin in the park system.

Douglas Falls near Thomas is a wide curtain of water with coke ovens and acid-mine staining behind it — beautiful and unsettling at once.

Bramwell, in the southern coalfields, was reportedly the wealthiest town per capita in America during the coal boom, and the houses are still standing. Pinnacle Rock is four hundred feet from a car nearby.

How to actually find these

The pattern is simple: go on a weekday, go one valley over from the famous thing, and read the managing agency's own trail list rather than a top-ten article. West Virginia State Parks publishes full trail inventories for most parks, and they routinely include named viewpoints and features that appear nowhere else on the internet.

The other pattern is elevation and season. In late September the highlands are at peak and everyone is there; the Greenbrier Valley and the coalfields are still green and empty and will be beautiful two weeks later.

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Questions

What is the most underrated place in West Virginia?
Beartown State Park for sheer strangeness, Cathedral State Park for old-growth hemlock, and the Cacapon River for empty water. All three take half a day or less.
Where can I go in West Virginia to avoid crowds?
Weekdays anywhere, and the southern coalfields, Monroe County and the Mid-Ohio Valley almost any time. Panther State Forest and Moncove Lake are about as quiet as public land gets in the East.
Is Coopers Rock worth visiting with the overlook closed?
Yes. Raven Rock, 1.5 miles and moderate, gives a comparable Cheat Canyon view, and Rock City and the Rattlesnake rim trail are unaffected and lightly used.
What is the best hidden swimming spot in West Virginia?
Blue Bend on Anthony Creek in the Greenbrier Valley — a CCC-built swimming area that is still cold well into summer. Audra State Park's ledges are the north-central equivalent.

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